October is a t shirt printing, screen printing, garment sourcing and embroidery supplier established in 1990. We source a wide range of clothing and accessories to fit the most demanding of specifications. Although we print and embroider for a variety of sectors, our speciality is fashion.
With this in mind we offer a full service including garment sourcing, graphic design input, range development, technical screen print and embroidery advice, label supply, re-labelling, bagging, swing ticketing and bulk distribution.
This isn't everything. That would just be too massive, but it is a cross section of all our favourite T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoods, polos, hats etc. It's what a pretentious bell end might call a curated edit. Feel free to call us with any questions, and let us know if we left anything out.
It all started 25 years ago. Paul finished a degree in obscure eastern religions, and was surprised to find he couldn't get a job. Not a problem, a friend had a sewing machine,
There are those who are for, and those against, and so we are occasionally asked ‘Why do we screenprint on American Apparel T-shirts?
Apart from the great product and ethical provenance, the honest answer is, as always with us, an involvement with the entire story. Not always an easy story we’ll admit, perhaps more of a soap story than a fairy tale. What follows is difficult, easier to avoid than confront, and our conclusions are uncertain and open to debate.
Based in LA and founded by Dov Charney in 1989, American Apparel is a vertically integrated company that is one of the biggest T shirt and apparel manufacturers in North America, at one point being one of the 500 fastest growing companies in the US
That said, It hasn’t made any profit since 2009, filed for bankruptcy in 2015, then in 2016 exited bankruptcy after re working its finances and booting out its ex CEO and founder. And so the wild financial shenanigans begin, but this is just the tip of the American Apparel iceberg.
Whilst promoting ‘made in the USA’ goods, with great non sweatshop labour policies and paying well over minimum wages, Mr Charney was accused of sexual harassment on more than one occasion. In addition the entire organization was at times regarded by some as a non- female friendly environment
Moreover, American Apparel advertising campaigns were considered to be highly sexually charged, in a somewhat ‘girl next door’ and unsettling way (although they were occasionally applauded at least for avoiding the use of our old enemy the airbrush, and the inclusion of natural imperfections)
In furthur twists, American Apparel has used pornographic actors in some of its campaigns, including Lauren Phoenix, Charlotte Stokely, Sasha Grey and Faye Reagan. In fact the Adult entertainment trade magazine Adult Video News said that the American Apparel website is “one of the finer softcore websites going”
Some of the company’s other ads, which feature nudity or sexual themes, have been banned by various advertising authorities. American Apparel came under pressure for example in a 2014 ad for mini-skirts, which featured a model bending over so that her underwear was prominently exposed. In 2013, the company also released an ad in which the model lay on a bed with her feet up in the air without wearing any undies. There was a further ad in which a model posed in a series of photos focused on her lady parts, and in which her face was not seen. The UK Advertising Standards Authority criticized the ad for being “voyeuristic,” and “vulnerable.” Dodgy ground!
Could it get any worse? Well yes of course it could. All the above is before you get into a $10 million lawsuit with Woody Allen, over billboards in which he was dressed as a Rabbi. Why limit yourself to sexual uproar, when you can get a little religion tension in on the act?
Positives? Apart from the great labour policies and ethical production, there was pro-immigration support with Legalise LA, and pro Gay and Lesbian work with the American Apparel Legalise Gay campaign. Furthermore in 2012 there was the partnership with The Gay and Lesbian Alliance against Defamation, a range of T shirts celebrating LGBT Pride Month, and Isis King becoming AA’s first openly transgender model. The list of charitable organizations which American Apparel have championed is also extensive….American Red Cross, New Orleans relief, Justice for Immigrants, Children’s Homeless Youth Shelter, the Centre for Human Rights and more.
American Apparel have always had pop culture connections. In 2010 Kanye West in his album My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy for example, where we see the song ‘Gorgeous’ and its lyric ‘I need more drinks and less lights, and that American Apparel girl in just tights’ Again, an iffy reference, and the list of celebrity hook ups goes on, but perhaps this would lead us from the real question.
How do we make moral decisions around relationships which contain such positive and negative events and emotions? If there is any bad, do we avoid that connection in spite of the good? For example, do we not buy from Volkswagen or Hugo Boss because of their origins in darker times? Is it just the passage of time that makes this OK?
A great product and ethical manufacturing and employment is not sufficient in our entirely subjective view, to justify questionable practice. But nor perhaps should the greater good be sacrificed for the behaviour of a few men.
It is a difficult conclusion, but we screenprint onto American Apparel T-shirts in support of its 10,000 plus employees, the real people with real lives behind the sensational headlines, those who are so rarely mentioned, and yet those who we do not forget.
Your worries are over, thesecret of happiness, it’s all sorted, they’ve figured it out, and you can go back to bed.
After extensive research and countless bags of tax payers’ money, the scientists somewhere up a Norwegian fjord have done something useful for once, and rather than inventing a new wax that helps us to ski backwards, they have gone balls out and discovered the secret of happiness.
The secret of happiness is not as some of the poor and deluded suspected, oh no: it’s not a 1954 Mercedes 300 SL Gull Wing, in silver, with a gently worn and unrestored deep red leather interior – stuff that, we don’t want one of those; the secret of happiness is not that fisherman’s cottage on the outskirts of St Tropez, the one with fading but still cobalt blue shutters, orange tree littered gardens and a sun baked pan tiled roof, vines aplenty, rustic breads, and a slow cigarette on the jetty…you know, the one that can only be reached by your Italian Riva boat, all dark wood, understated power and the promise of ambassadorial arrival – sod the Cote d’Azur. Nor is it not a Russian ballet dancer called Nikita, who can do an unusual trick with the banana she keeps stuffed up her tights , or a Californian easy rider called Brad, all tanned, dripping with poetry, and happiest when hoovering naked.
Far from it, and none of the above – the secret of happiness is in fact – managing expectations. Not hoping for too much, and keeping one’s powder dry…etc.
And in a funny sort of way, isn’t managing our expectations at the heart of running a successful clothing brand?
It would be quite normal for hopeful new brand owners to assume, that because they have a mate, who knows a bloke, who once sold Jonny Depp a stick of eye liner, that they should be on a rocket ship to fashion superstardom. Or that because they have a social media following of well over 100, that every time they post a picture of what they’re having for dinner they’d better wolf down those fish fingers sharpish, and stand by the lap top waiting for it to catch fire with orders.
The secret of happiness is not hoping too hard for the above to happen overnight…and perhaps in the top five reasons for the failure of any clothing brand, we might be expecting too much too soon.
The secret of happiness is, perhaps, not worrying too much if you don’t sell any T-shirts week one?
The classic American t-shirt. Already early in the 20th century they were popularised across America as cheap mass produced underwear through mail order catalogues like Sears & Roebuck and Montgomery Ward. As such they became part of the standard dress of the US army and navy. Through numerous World War II movies the classic American T-shirt acquired a distinct image. It became associated with being at ease, of being unconcerned about class conventions, of being workmanlike and democratic. Most of all it stood for youth, toughness and masculinity. These war movies also initiated a shift in the potential of the classic T-shirt as clothing. Originally meant as an undergarment, apparently it could also be used as a casual outer garment.
T-shirts are classic American artefacts.
In the 1950’s this image of the T-shirt was transported to Europe by movie icons such as Marlon Brando, Montgomery Clift and James Dean. In crossing the ocean, however, the meaning of the classic American T-shirt was transformed, or to be more precise, another strong ‘European’ message was added to the T-shirt; that of American-ness. It shared this post war association with America with other iconic consumer items like Coca-Cola, streamlined cars, and bubble gum. As such it became part of a fierce controversy over the feared demise of European culture in the onslaught of American superficiality and materialism. Probably because of this, the classic American T-shirt became an ideal trademark for angry young authors like the Dutch writers Jan Cremer and Jan Wolkers. European rebels with or without a cause adopted it together with blue jeans, signifying youth culture as a protest against the established morality of their parents’ bourgeois society. Paradoxically, left wing anti-American protestors who demonstrated in the capitols of Europe against the Vietnam War therefore could be dressed in the very T-shirts and blue jeans that were iconic for the American way of life!
The 1980’s, Classic American T-shirt and it’s transformation.
Then in the 1980’s the use and meaning of the classic American T-shirt went through another transformation. Its potential as a messenger – carrying texts and logos of all kinds – enabled it to be used as a means of corporate and individual expression which was exploited by small printing industries. As before the T-shirt could be used in an iconoclastic way, but its American associations had faded, as had its symbolisation of youthful protest. We could say that the classic T-shirt was being localised, becoming part of numerous local subcultures of expression that could not easily be transferred to other places. The famous T-shirt print shop in the Damstraat in Amsterdam featured artist-designed, subversive, often scabrous prints that amazed tourists as ‘typically Amsterdam’ and that probably wouldn’t be tolerated in public elsewhere.
The Classic American T-shirt – ubiquitous casual wear.
The lesson of the American Classics Apparel history is that mass consumer goods – even though they might be introduced from elsewhere and initially be alien to a particular cultural world – often will be transformed in unexpected ways to new local cultural meanings. The basic uniformity of the Classic American T-shirt as dress all over the world really is a mirage. In the modern world the Classic American T-shirt has become ubiquitous casual wear. But wearing it does not necessarily associate us anymore with classic American T-shirts, youth culture, rebellion, or hard work. In anthropological parlance, it has been appropriated as a versatile vehicle for local identity construction. Or in other words, we have ‘captured’ the T-shirt from its former ‘alien’ classicAmerican t-shirt symbolism, and transformed it into a pluriform garment that we experience as truly our own.
In spite of an allergy to truffle oil, coffee shop anxiety over what will happen if we order a ‘skinny ginger’, and a tendency to slap anyone uncertain on the correct use of ‘please’, ‘thank you’ and ‘excuse me’, October Textiles have opened a London Office, on Lots Road in Chelsea.
London customers visit the October factory most days, and there is no substitute for a good look at the full production facility when working on a new collection, but we understand, that getting trapped in the road network may mean you never see your family again; a train may require a re-mortgage to get you three stops down the line; and in the absence of a helipad at our Nottingham HQ, we sometimes need to come to you.
This will enable us to cover all the important considerations at the outset.
What will be the consistent graphic delivery values of that story, that enable us to create a recognizable, signature look?
Will we be heritage, or contemporary, street or couture?
How will we make our collection ‘look like a proper brand’?
Where will we market our range, and to whom? Internet, wholesale, or retail?
In a hugely competitive market place, do online sales generate good return for SEO investment?
How long do those sales take to realize?
Is wholesale a viable option, are independents supporting new brands?
Should we work towards opening our own store?
And how do we fund all of the above?
These and many more questions can be quietly considered at the edge of Chelsea harbour, before we then move onto the production detail…165 or 185 gram jersey fabric, loop fold, end fold or hot cut labels…a high definition badge, screen print or digital, water based, solvent based or discharge ink…and what about swing tickets, and packaging?
If that sounds of any interest, then we look forward to seeing you smoke side…you’ll know it’s us, we’ll be drinking English Breakfast Tea.
Screen print is important (We would say that wouldn’t we, after 25 years bang at it), as is the correct choice of T-shirt, the right garment labels, lovely swing tickets and interesting ink techniques.
But for us it’s always been about the story that we tell through the designs, where possible taking us on a journey of ideas to a special place, probably Narnia…the notion that good graphic design, is intellect made visible, without which we are merely a bunch of pictures. After many discussions in the back rooms of Clerkenwell, with the much bearded, drop crotch chino’d, and ballet shoe’d genius that is Dr Gregory White, we feel we have concocted a brand beverage packed with story, the Roux story….this takes time, and the commitment to not rush into worrying about garment cuts and print techniques at the outset…we will wait until we’re ready to take the right design direction – in this case to go on a trip where we are…
DONE (with the old designs)
This is the first collection of three designs, which refer to the story we are leaving behind. Expect to see screen print here which make reference to T-shirts we have seen many times before…a graphic representation then that metaphorically, we are ready to leave our old self behind, whatever that means to the individual and their own interpretation. There is no desire to criticise what was here, we love a little heritage print on a vintage T shirt, it is merely the idea that we are ready to…
CHANGE (we may lose a few of those old t shirts)
This is our next movement through screen print to a new story, where T-shirt designs will begin carry the idea that a Leopard can change its spots….we have not made this movement yet, but we are saying it can be done, there is encouragement to go in whatever direction you choose, perhaps good or bad…there is no preaching in this part of the story…we are trying to find the confidence to make…
MOVEMENT (through the magic of screen print)
A collection of T-shirt designs appear here that tell us we are on the move, we have not just embraced the idea that we are done, that we can change, but are doing something about it, we are on the road with Roux to a new story, and if we’re lucky we may arrive at a place where we say…
WE ARE ROUX (this is our new story)
Four screen print T-shirt designs in this section, to illustrate an arrival at a new story, whatever you choose that to be…we have decided that we are DONE with the old ways, we have taken on board the idea of CHANGE, we have made the MOVEMENT and…..WE ARE ROUX
The Hemp Trading Company came runner up in the 2006 Observer Ethical Awards for ‘Best Fashion Product’, and was also shortlisted for ‘Environmental company of the year’ at the ‘Re:Fashion Awards
The Hemp Trading Company’s CEO Gavin Lawson was also listed in the ‘Future 100’ social entrepreneurs of 2008.
The Hemp Trading Company is a member of Ethical Junction http://www.ethical-junction.org
The Hemp Trading Company also use Bamboo:
Some of the THTC range is made from 70% bamboo, mixed with 30% organic cotton. The company we source our bamboo fibre from has Oeko Tex 100 certification, which is an internationally recognised standard in sustainability. Bamboo is one of the few plants that grows faster than hemp, and as it comes from an interconnected subterranean root system, the plant is not killed, just the shoots harvested. The supplier is internationally recognised for its sustainable processes regarding not only harvesting but also production of the organic bamboo. The fibre is a bamboo viscose (as is 99% of the bamboo fibre found in the textile industry) meaning that it is an extruded fibre made in the same way as other viscose fibres, so there is a chemical and energy footprint, however the raw material is bamboo cellulose which is very sustainable
The last range of men’s bamboo t-shirts have been sourced from Continental Clothing, a London-based supplier. Continental have full certifications of all their fabrics on their website, which can be found on their website:
All factories that THTC uses comply with ISO 9000 standards — (international organisation of standardisation) The hemp is trucked to the mill for de-gumming and processing into fibre. No caustic soda is used during this process, keeping it as environmentally sound as possible.
The clothing is manufactured by people who receive full safety training, and belong to a labour union. The minimum age of employees is 19, the maximum age being 54. They work 8 hour shifts and have weekends off – (That’s more than us at THTC central!)
All our Hemp is grown on small family farms in North Eastern China. It is and always has been grown organically.
All our certified organic cotton is also grown in China. This is a fledgling industry that THTC supports and saves the energy and expense of shipping in from Europe or India.
The Hemp Trading Company now uses water based inks (comply with GOTS) with a discharge screen printing process for almost all new designs.
Eco Paper is used for poster printing, and will soon be used in all THTC flyers, swing tickets and catalogues.
Currently, THTC is working endlessly in order to join forces with the Fair Trade Foundation. Although already doing so, attaining the Fair Trade Mark will signify the THTC products as an independent guarantee that disadvantaged producers in the developing world are getting a better deal.
For a products from the The Hemp Trading Company to display the FAIRTRADE Mark it must meet international Fairtrade standards.
In spite of an allergy to truffle oil, coffee shop anxiety over what will happen if we order a ‘skinny ginger’, and a tendency to slap anyone uncertain on the correct use of ‘please’, ‘thank you’ and ‘excuse me’, 
